Twelve skill cards covering the whole 10-week program. Read these before the season starts.
Card 01 · Foundation Under Pressure
Attack position under load
Holding form when tired, on chunky terrain, at race pace. The same position they've been building for years — but now it has to survive 20 minutes of hard riding without falling apart.
Why it matters
At Intermediate, the goal was "attack position becomes automatic." At Advanced, the goal is "attack position survives stress." Fatigue, fear, speed, and rough terrain all conspire to break form. The riders who hold attack position when their legs are burning and their hands are pumped — those are the riders who are still in control on the third lap of a race. Haley Batten (Utah native, Olympic medalist) doesn't lose form on the final climb. Puck Pieterse doesn't sit down on the descent when she's gassed. That's the standard. Show her videos.
The cue
Heavy feet, light hands, eyes up. Especially when you're tired.
The drill — Fatigued Attack
5 minutes of hard climbing or hard pump-track laps first. Get them genuinely tired.
Immediately into a 100-yard course in full attack position the entire length. No breaks, no sitting.
Watch for: butt back, chest forward, heavy on the feet, light on the hands, eyes scanning ahead.
Any break in form = restart from the climb.
Progress: longer courses, harder fatigue, then take it onto a real descent at the end of a real ride.
The point isn't to punish them. It's to teach the body that form holds even when the legs are screaming.
What success looks like
Form holds through 5+ minutes of effort, not just fresh reps
Hands stay light even when arms are pumped
Eyes stay up even when breathing hard
Can describe in her own words what good attack feels like
Form on lap 3 looks like form on lap 1
What failure looks like
Form decays when tired — universal at first. That's exactly what we're training. More reps, longer runs.
Sits down on the descent because legs are tired — guarantees a bad descent. Cue: "Legs are tired? Stand harder. Sitting makes it worse, not better."
Heavy hands when fatigued — they're collapsing onto the bars. Cue: "Drive the pedals through the floor. Take weight off your hands."
Pumped forearms / "arm pump" — death-gripping the bars. Real physical problem at this age. Cue: "Loose hands. The bike steers from your hips, not your hands."
Post-PHV coordination still settling — many girls in this age group are post-PHV, but the body is still adjusting to its new size. Sudden form breaks aren't a regression — they're adaptation. Don't punish. Acknowledge: "Your body changed. Form is catching up."
If stuck
If a rider's form falls apart consistently when tired, the issue is almost always grip strength or grip pressure, not core fitness. Most riders this age grip the bars way harder than they need to — it's exhausting and counterproductive. Have her try a full course holding the bars with only 3 fingers, thumb and pinky touching but not gripping. Forces light hands. Once she rides the course like that, normal grip will feel relaxed by comparison.
Card 02 · Late Brakes, Faster Exits
Trail-braking & late-braking
Brakes stay on into the corner, not before it. Release at the apex. The single biggest cornering-speed unlock — and the technique that turns confident riders into actually-fast riders.
Why it matters
Beginner riders brake before the corner. Intermediate riders brake right up to the corner. Advanced riders brake through the corner — into the entrance, deep toward the apex, then release. This is called trail-braking, and it's how every fast XC rider in the world corners. It lets you carry more speed into the corner because you can scrub speed mid-turn. It also keeps the front tire weighted through the apex, which improves grip. Counterintuitive, hard to teach, and worth every minute spent on it. Watch any Pauline Ferrand-Prévot corner — she's still on the brakes when most riders would have released.
The cue
Brakes on past the entrance. Release at the apex. Drive out.
The drill — Late Brake Marker
Set up a marked corner with a clear entrance, apex, and exit.
Place a brake-release marker (cone or stick) at the apex — that's where the brakes come off.
Approach at moderate speed. Stay off the brakes longer than feels comfortable.
Brake hard and progressively starting at the entrance — feathering the front brake especially.
At the apex marker: release both brakes. Immediately drive the pedal stroke, accelerate.
Build over weeks: move the release marker progressively closer to the exit. Brakes come off later and later.
Demo it slow first. Then at speed. Then have them try it slow before adding speed.
What success looks like
Brakes stay on noticeably longer than they used to
Front wheel stays weighted through the entrance — no skipping or washing
Brakes release cleanly at the apex, accelerating out
Faster corner exit speeds (timed laps will show this)
Smoother through the whole turn — less mid-corner correction
What failure looks like
Brakes off before the entrance — old habit. Cue: "Brake later. Carry the speed into the corner."
Locks the front wheel mid-corner — too much front brake on the lean. Cue: "Feather the front. Bias toward the rear when leaned over."
Brakes stay on past the apex — won't commit to releasing. Cue: "Brakes OFF at the cone. Then drive."
Pushes the front wheel and washes out — too much speed, not enough weight on the front. Back it off. Trail-braking takes weeks to dial in.
Doesn't trust the technique and reverts to early braking — fine. Trail-braking has to feel right before it feels fast. Demo it more. Have her watch slow-motion video of Puck Pieterse or Pauline Ferrand-Prévot cornering — the brake release point is visible if you know what to look for.
If stuck
If trail-braking isn't clicking, drop the speed in half. Trail-braking at 5 mph is the same skill as trail-braking at 15 mph, just less consequential. Have her do 10 corners at really slow speed, focused only on the brake-release timing. Once the timing feels natural, add speed gradually. The mistake almost everyone makes is trying to learn trail-braking at speed — speed makes it harder, not easier.
Card 03 · Real Speed Through Real Corners
Cornering at race pace
Full body separation, weighted bars, late braking, apex selection, exit drive. Every cornering skill from Beginner through Intermediate, integrated and at speed. The corners that make a fast rider fast.
Why it matters
Every other Advanced skill compounds in cornering. Attack position under load. Trail-braking. Bike-body separation. Vision. They all come together when she rails a corner at real speed. This is where years of Cone Carves and Carve & Exits pay off. A rider who corners well will outride a stronger rider with bad corners every time — and that gap widens as trails get harder. Demo your corners. Watching it done well is one of the most powerful teaching moments at this age.
The cue
Late brakes. Outside heavy. Inside elbow down. Eyes at the exit.
The drill — Apex Selection
Find a real trail corner — bermed or flat, doesn't matter. Mark the apex with a stick or chalk.
Have them ride the corner three different ways:
Run 1 — Early apex: hit the inside of the corner early. Slower exit, easier line. Notice how you have to brake more to manage the exit.
Run 2 — Late apex: stay wide on entry, hit the inside late, drive straight out. Faster exit, harder to set up. This is the racing line.
Run 3 — Their choice: they pick, then explain why. Was the early apex right for that corner? Was the late apex worth the risk?
This drill teaches them that cornering is a choice, not a single technique.
Demo all three yourself. Especially the late apex — they need to see what it looks like done right.
What success looks like
Full bike-body separation visible — bike at 25-30°, body more upright
Late braking, releasing at or past the apex
Eyes already at the exit by the apex
Bars actively driven into the turn (not just along for the ride)
Accelerating noticeably coming out of the corner
Can explain which apex she used and why
What failure looks like
Won't commit to the late apex — feels too aggressive. Cue: "This is the racing line. Try it slow first if you need to. The bike wants to go where you point your eyes."
Inside elbow up, body stiff — no separation. Cue: "Drop the inside elbow. Let the bike lean."
Brakes through the whole corner — defeats the whole drill. Cue: "Trail-brake to the apex. Then off. Then drive."
Always picks the early apex even when wrong — early apex isn't always safer; on the wrong corner it forces a worse exit. Cue: "Read the corner. Late apex isn't a rule, but neither is early. Pick on purpose."
Compares her line to another rider's — "She's so much faster through here." Catch it. Cue: "Eyes on your own line. Your corner is your corner. The only measurement that matters is your lap 1 vs. your lap 3."
If stuck
If a rider can't connect the cornering pieces at speed, slow it down and isolate. Pick ONE thing per corner: just trail-braking for 5 corners, just apex selection for 5 corners, just separation for 5 corners. Then put two together. Then three. Then all four. Compound skills break down when learned all at once. Isolate, then integrate.
Card 04 · Both Directions, Real Trails
Switchback mastery
Both directions, climbing and descending, in real trail conditions. The skill that opens up every technical trail in Utah — and the skill that turns a competent rider into a real mountain biker.
Why it matters
At Intermediate, switchbacks were a drill on cones. At Advanced, they're on real trails — at trail pace, with consequences. Tight uphill switchbacks demand ratcheting, weight forward, and patience. Tight downhill switchbacks demand body separation, eye discipline, and brake control. Most adult riders can't clean both directions cleanly. A rider at this age who can ride switchbacks both ways is already ahead of most riders on the trail. That's the standard, and she's capable of meeting it.
The cue
Eyes through the turn. Outside foot heavy. Slow is fast.
The drill — Trail Switchback Sessions
Find a section of real trail with 2-3 switchbacks in each direction. Bonham, Pipeline, or any Park City switchback trail works.
Climbing switchbacks: attack position with chest forward (weight on front wheel). Pre-shift before the turn. Ratchet through the apex if pedals would strike. Eyes already at the exit before the bike has finished turning.
Descending switchbacks: attack position with hard body separation. Brakes feathering on the entrance, releasing through the apex. Eyes way at the exit. Outside foot weighted hard.
Ride the section 3-4 times. Walk failed attempts and discuss what to try differently.
By the end of the session: each rider should clean at least one switchback in each direction. That's the bar.
What success looks like
Cleans climbing switchbacks without dabbing
Cleans descending switchbacks without skidding or putting a foot down
Can describe her line through the switchback
Eyes already past the apex by the time the bike enters the turn
Smooth, controlled, looks deliberate not lucky
What failure looks like
Front wheel lifts on a climbing switchback — weight too far back. Cue: "Chest down. Push the front wheel into the dirt."
Skids the rear wheel on a descending switchback — too much rear brake, no front brake. Cue: "Feather the front. Bias front when leaned over."
Eyes follow the front wheel through the turn — bike runs wide. Cue: "Eyes at the exit BEFORE you turn the bars."
Tries to ride it too fast — switchbacks reward slow. Cue: "Slow is fast. You can't carve a 180° turn at 15 mph."
Strong on one direction, struggles on the other — very common. Everyone has a strong side. Spend extra reps on the weak side. Cue: "Right-hand switchbacks are easier for almost everyone. The work is on the left."
If stuck
If a rider can't clean her weak side, find a switchback in that direction that's easier — wider radius, less steep. Practice that one until it's clean. Then find a slightly harder one. Build over weeks. The weak side will always lag the strong side by 6 months or more. That's normal. The goal isn't to be equal — it's to keep both sides progressing.
Card 05 · Committed Two-Wheel Drops
Drop technique, refined
Push the bike forward, match the landing angle, land both wheels evenly. Building on Intermediate technique with bigger features — sized by coach judgment, never by a number in writing.
Why it matters
By Advanced, riders are encountering drops on every trail they ride. The technique needs to be repeatable, reliable, and reflexive. What changes from Intermediate is the consequence — a botched drop at this size hurts more. Which means form has to be solid before size goes up. The progression matters more than the feature.
The cue
Push the bars forward. Match the landing. Both wheels together.
The drill — Drop Repetition
Find a drop appropriate for this rider — the coach decides. Bigger than Intermediate, but the size decision belongs to you, not a number.
Coach's judgment is the rule, not a height number. Every rider, every bike, every day is different. Smaller is always the right call when in doubt.
Phase 1: rolling drops — both wheels stay on the ground. 5-10 reps. This is the warm-up, not optional.
Phase 2: committed drops with the push-forward technique. Brief airtime, both wheels match the landing.
Land both wheels at the same time. A nose-heavy landing on this size feature hurts.
If you're confident on the feature, demo it. If you're not, don't fake it — walk it with her and discuss the technique instead.
One rider at a time. Rest watch. No racing.
What success looks like
Locked into attack position well before the drop
Bars push forward as front wheel goes off the edge
Bike levels in the air — matches the landing angle
Both wheels land at the same time
Rides away controlled, accelerating
Looks the same on rep 1 as rep 10 — consistency is the goal
What failure looks like
Front wheel drops first, slams — no push. Cue: "Push the bars forward as you go off."
Rear wheel slams first — pulled too hard, over-corrected. Cue: "Just push, don't pull. Match the angle."
Brakes locked through the drop — kills momentum, makes the landing worse. Cue: "Brakes off through the drop."
Watches another rider ride something bigger and feels she should match it — name it directly: "Their progression is theirs. Yours is yours. The drop you ride is the one I set, not the one someone else just rode."
Holds back from a drop she's actually ready for — different problem. Don't push, but talk: "What's stopping you? Let's break it down." Often the fear is bigger than the feature.
If stuck
If a rider isn't dialed in on the technique at Intermediate-size drops, don't go bigger. Run more reps at the same size. Or go smaller. The number of reps matters more than the size of the feature. A rider who can do 20 clean reps at small size is way more ready for the next size than a rider who's done 3 reps at the next size and gotten lucky. Repetition builds the motor pattern that makes bigger drops safe.
Card 06 · The Real Bunny Hop
J-hop bunny hop
The pro bunny hop. Bike pulls up at an angle, not straight. Higher, longer, smoother than the American hop they learned at Intermediate. The skill that clears real obstacles at trail speed.
Why it matters
The American hop they learned at Intermediate works — front up, push bars, scoop feet. The J-hop is the technique pros actually use. It's called a J-hop because the bike traces a J-shape: front wheel up, then the whole bike rotates forward over a high point. Higher hops. Longer hops. Clearing 12+ inches becomes possible. This is the bunny hop that clears a log mid-trail at speed, that hops onto a curb, that pops over a root that surprised you. Watch Puck Pieterse, Pauline Ferrand-Prévot, or Evie Richards in a World Cup XC race — they J-hop everything. This is timing and technique, not strength. Flat pedals only. Always.
The cue
Front wheel up at an angle. Push forward. Rear follows.
The drill — J-Hop Progression
Solid American hops from Intermediate are the prerequisite. If they're not clean, go back.
Phase 1 — The J-shape: instead of pulling the front wheel straight up, pull it up and forward. Like launching the front wheel over a small wall. The bike's trajectory traces a J.
Phase 2 — Forward push: as the front wheel reaches its peak, push the bars forward and down. This rotates the rear wheel up over the high point. The bike pivots around the rider's hips.
Phase 3 — Landing: both wheels match the landing angle. Push forward to level out if needed.
Drill it over a stick on flat ground. Then a 4-inch obstacle. Then a real obstacle on the trail.
Demo it slow. The J-shape is hard to see at speed. Slow demos teach the body what to do.
What success looks like
Front wheel lifts up and forward, not just straight up
The bike clearly traces a J-shape in the air
Push-forward motion at the peak is visible
Higher and longer hops than the American hop
Lands smoothly, both wheels matching the landing
Riders this age care a lot about clean technique. Reinforce when she gets it.
What failure looks like
Just doing an American hop, calling it a J-hop — front went straight up, not forward. Cue: "Forward and up. Throw the front wheel toward the landing, not the sky."
Push-forward doesn't happen — gets the front up but rear stays low. Cue: "At the peak, push the bars away from you. Hard."
Lands front wheel first — pushed too hard, over-rotated. Cue: "Less push. Match the landing."
Lands rear wheel first — not enough push, rear came up too high. Cue: "More push at the peak. Get the bike level."
"I can't do this" — catch it. Reframe: "It's timing, not strength. Watch me — I'm using my whole body. This is a six-month skill, not a six-day skill."
Tries it clipped in — NO. Flat pedals. The reasons from Intermediate Card 08 apply even more here.
If stuck
The J-hop is genuinely hard. Some riders take a full season to dial it in. If a rider can't get it, don't sweat it — solid American hops will clear most obstacles she encounters. Use the time to drill higher American hops instead. Get her hopping 8 inches with the American technique before pushing into J-hop territory. The J-hop is an unlock, not a requirement. Patience.
Card 07 · The Skill They Beg For
Manuals
Front wheel up, rolling on the rear wheel only — no pedaling. Real balance, not a pop. The hardest skill in this deck — and one of the most satisfying when it clicks.
Why it matters
A manual is balancing the bike on the rear wheel while rolling — no pedaling. It's different from a wheelie (which uses pedals) and different from a front-wheel lift (which is a pop, not sustained). Done right, a manual flows through rollers, pumps for speed, and looks effortless. Done wrong, the rider loops out backward — which is why this skill takes months to learn and why we teach it carefully. This is also the skill that makes pumping advanced terrain possible. Lee McCormack treats manuals as foundational for pump-track racing.
The cue
Push the bike forward away from you. Use your hips, not your arms.
The drill — Manual Progression
Phase 1 — The push: rolling at slow-to-moderate speed in attack position. Drop into a deep crouch (load the bike), then explode UP and BACK — pushing the bike forward away from you. Front wheel lifts. Try to hold it for 1 second, then 2, then more.
Phase 2 — Finding balance: the balance point is way further back than feels safe. The rear wheel is the pivot. Practice finding it — go past it on purpose so you learn what too-far feels like. Cover the rear brake. Tapping the rear brake brings the front wheel down instantly. Use it whenever you start to loop out.
Phase 3 — Sustained manual: hold the manual for 10+ feet. Use small body adjustments — push hips forward to lower the front, pull hips back to raise it.
This takes weeks. Sometimes months. Be patient.
Practice on grass first. Loop-outs to grass are nothing. Loop-outs to gravel are bad.
What success looks like
Front wheel comes up cleanly using hip extension, not arm pull
Body weight is clearly behind the rear axle
Holds the manual for 5+ feet by mid-season, longer by end
Uses rear brake to safety the loop-out tendency
Body relaxed, small adjustments — not stiff and flailing
What failure looks like
Pulling on the bars instead of pushing the bike away — just gets a front-wheel lift, not a manual. Cue: "Don't pull. Push the bike forward and step back."
Front wheel comes up and immediately drops — didn't get far enough back. Cue: "Further back. Your butt should be over the rear wheel, not the seat."
Loops out backward — went too far past the balance point. Tap the rear brake immediately to bring the front down. Front comes back to earth. Crash avoided. This is why we cover the rear brake the whole time.
Refuses to push past the balance point — won't find where the limit is. Cue: "You have to loop out on grass to learn where the limit is. Loop out on purpose. Use the brake."
If stuck
If a rider isn't making progress on manuals, it's almost always one of two issues: she's using arms instead of hips, or she's scared of looping out. For the arms problem, have her ride alongside you with one hand on the bars. She literally can't pull. She has to use her body. For the loop-out fear, set up the manual drill on grass with a clear understanding: "Loop-out today is the goal. Tap the rear brake. Front comes back down. We do this 10 times until you trust it." Once she trusts the brake, she'll commit to the balance point.
Card 08 · Real Jumping
Tabletops & small jumps
Building on Intermediate tabletops with bigger features, better technique, and the beginning of jumping as a discipline. Match the landing angle. Both wheels together. Coach decides size.
Why it matters
Tabletops at Advanced are the same skill as at Intermediate — takeoff, flat top, landing — just on bigger features. The key technique additions are: matching the landing angle (bike rotates in the air to come down nose-first onto a downward-sloping landing), preloading the takeoff (compressing the suspension just before the lip to gain more pop), and airborne body adjustments (pull the bike up under you, push it down on landing). This is the foundation for every jumping skill that comes after. Pro women — Evie Richards, Puck Pieterse — jump World Cup tabletops with this exact technique.
The cue
Compress before the lip. Stay centered. Match the landing.
The drill — Tabletop Refinement
Find a tabletop appropriate for this rider — coach decides. Smaller is better when in doubt.
Phase 1 — Roll it. 5 reps minimum, even at this level. Warm up the motor pattern.
Phase 2 — Add preload. Right before the takeoff, compress the suspension by pushing down through the legs. As the lip releases, the bike pops up naturally. Don't pull the bars — the lip does the work.
Phase 3 — Match the landing. The landing is sloped downward. The bike should land with both wheels at the same time on that slope. If the takeoff sends you nose-up, push the bars forward in the air to level out. If nose-down, pull back gently.
Phase 4 — Both wheels together. Both wheels touch down at the same instant. This is the standard.
If you're confident on the tabletop, demo every phase. If you're not, don't fake it — walk it with her and discuss the technique instead.
What success looks like
Visible preload before the lip — compression then release
Body stays centered over the bike in the air
Bike matches the angle of the landing
Both wheels land at the same time, on the down-slope
Smooth ride-away, no compression bottoming-out
Looks repeatable — same form every rep
What failure looks like
Pulls up on the bars at takeoff — bike rotates backward. Cue: "Don't pull. The lip pops you. Stay neutral."
Lands on the flat top — not enough speed. Cue: "Roll it or clear it. Don't half-send it."
Front wheel slams down first — weight too far forward, or pushed bars too hard. Cue: "Stay centered in the air. Match the landing."
Hangs back from trying Phase 3 even when ready — different from being scared, more about not knowing it's allowed to want this. Cue (privately): "You're ready for airtime. You can try it whenever you want. I'll watch."
Wants to try doubles or gap jumps — not in this program. Advanced means tabletops, not gaps. Doubles save for high school. Cue: "We do tabletops here. Doubles are a different skill, different program, different age."
If stuck
If a rider's tabletops look the same as they did at Intermediate, the issue is usually preload. She's just rolling through the takeoff, getting some air from the lip's shape, but not actively jumping. Have her watch a video of a pro hitting a small tabletop — Puck Pieterse on Instagram has good slow-mo content. The compression before the lip is the key technique to see. Then drill ONLY the preload — even on flat ground, practicing the compress-and-release motion before integrating with the jump.
Card 09 · Real Trails, Real Pace
Technical descending at trail pace
Chunky terrain. Line choice on the fly. Brake control through rocks. Eyes way ahead. Real consequences. The skill that turns hard descents from white-knuckle survival into something a rider actually enjoys.
Why it matters
At this level, riders should be cleaning descents that would terrify their parents. The skill set is locked in — attack position under load, trail-braking, line choice, body separation. What changes at Advanced is the terrain. Bigger rocks. Steeper sections. Looser dirt. Roots after rain. The skill is the same; the consequences are real. Which means coaching has to be more deliberate, not less. This is the card where most preventable crashes happen. Take it seriously. If you can ride the descent well, demo it for her.
The cue
Light hands, heavy feet, eyes way ahead. Let the bike work.
The drill — Tech Descent Progression
Find a descent with real technical features — chunk, drops, off-camber sections.
Walk it first. Every time. Identify the features. Discuss the lines. Discuss the brake points. Discuss the eye targets. This step isn't optional.
Ride it: full attack position from before the descent starts.
At chunky sections: let off the brakes. Brakes lock suspension, suspension can't work, bike bounces around. Counterintuitive but right.
Eyes 20+ feet ahead. Scan for lines, pick early.
Run it 3-4 times. Each lap, push the line choice harder if appropriate. Stop her if a line is beyond her current skill — there's a difference between progression and recklessness.
What success looks like
Locked into attack position from the start of the descent
Eyes far ahead, scanning
Feathering brakes on smooth sections, releasing through chunk
Bike feels alive — suspension working, body absorbing
Smooth at speed, not jerky
Can describe her line and brake choices after the run
What failure looks like
Sits down through the descent — every bump becomes a hit. Cue: "Stand the whole way. Knees absorb."
Death grip through chunk — locks suspension. Cue: "Let off through the rocks. Let the suspension breathe."
Eyes locked 5 feet ahead — reacting, not anticipating. Cue: "Look further. Where do you want to be in 3 seconds?"
Says "I'm fine" but body says otherwise — stiff shoulders, white knuckles, no breathing. Pull aside privately: "Be honest. Are you sure?" Don't take "fine" at face value if her body disagrees.
Holds back on a line she's actually ready for — different from real fear. Talk it through: "What do you think is going to happen? Let's break down the line." Often the imagined consequence is bigger than the actual one.
Another rider pressures her to send something — call it out fast. Cue: "Her progression is hers. Yours is yours. Nobody else decides what you ride."
If stuck
If a rider's descents look sketchy — bouncing around, getting bucked, looking out of control — the issue is almost always brake management. She's grabbing brakes through chunk, which locks the suspension and turns every rock into a hit. Force the lesson: have her ride a chunky section with her brakes covered but not squeezed at all. Bike rolls through. She feels what the suspension is supposed to do. Then re-introduce light braking on the smooth parts.
Card 10 · Going Up Hard
Climbing power & efficiency
Out-of-saddle climbing. Race-pace climbing. Recovery on climbs. The climbing skills that matter on real trails and at race pace — when staying seated isn't an option.
Why it matters
Beginner and Intermediate climbing was about staying seated and smooth — the right approach for technique-building. Advanced climbing adds the rest of the toolkit: standing climbs for short power efforts, pace management for long climbs, recovery breathing, and pre-shifting for stuff a rider has to ride through. Climbing power is a skill that responds to training. Riders this age who put in the climbing reps now will be the strongest climbers in their high-school NICA teams. The strength is already there — it's the technique that needs work.
The cue
Smooth circles, even when standing. Breathe through it.
The drill — Climbing Sets
Find a climb with 3-4 distinct sections — gentle, steep punch, gentle, steep punch.
Drill 1 — Seated power: ride the whole climb seated. Smooth, steady cadence. This is the baseline.
Drill 2 — Standing on the punches: seated through gentle sections, stand for short punches. Use the standing for power, sit back down for recovery. The transitions matter — they should be smooth, not abrupt.
Drill 3 — Recovery breathing: on the gentle sections between hard efforts, focus on slow exhales — not gasping, not shallow. 4-second exhale through pursed lips. Calms heart rate, lets her go harder on the next punch.
Run the climb 3-4 times. Each rider compares which drill let them finish strongest.
A note on body changes
Many riders at this age are starting their periods, dealing with changing bike fit, or starting to feel saddle discomfort that wasn't an issue before. This is normal and worth addressing matter-of-factly. If a rider mentions discomfort: padded shorts help, saddle fit can be adjusted, taking a day off when needed is fine. Don't make it weird. Don't avoid talking about it. The riders who get through these years with adults who treat their bodies as normal stay in the sport.
What success looks like
Smooth, steady spin when seated
Clean transitions in and out of the saddle — no rocking, no chain noise
Standing climbs use the whole body, not just arms pulling on bars
Visible recovery breathing on gentle sections
Stronger on lap 3 than the rider who's just mashing harder
Can describe pacing choices
What failure looks like
Mashes a hard gear standing — looks fast, dies fast. Cue: "Easy gear standing too. Spin even when you're standing."
Stands the whole climb — exhausts her. Cue: "Stand on the steep parts, sit on the rest. Recover so you can punch."
Rocks the bike side to side when standing — wastes traction, throws off the line. Cue: "Keep the bike vertical. Body moves, bike stays straight."
Shallow panic breathing — limits oxygen, accelerates exhaustion. Cue: "Slow exhale. Four seconds. Through pursed lips."
Quietly hurting and won't say — pain (knees, back, saddle) can shut a rider down. Ask directly if you see her struggling: "Is something hurting? It's okay to say."
Knee pain — this age is prime for growth-plate issues. Real medical concern, not "tough it out." Stop, ask about pain location and severity, send her to her parents and doctor. Don't push through it.
If stuck
If a rider climbs well in drills but blows up on real rides, the issue is almost always pacing. She's surging on the first climb of the ride and paying for it the rest of the day. Have her ride a real loop with a heart rate or breathing target — keep it manageable on the first climb. She'll finish stronger and notice the difference. Pacing is a skill that takes years to dial in. Start now.
Card 11 · Pacing, Starts, Passing
Race-day fundamentals
Pacing strategy. Race starts. Passing etiquette. Lap planning. Even riders who don't race competitively benefit from these skills on every group ride.
Why it matters
Some Advanced riders will be racing in the Utah League's Junior Devo program — and the Utah League has a strong GRiT (Girls Riding Together) program that's worth knowing about. Some won't race at all. Either way, race-day skills translate. Pacing is just pacing — useful on any ride. Starting position management, passing on singletrack, lap strategy — all of it shows up in any group ride context. This card teaches the framework without requiring competition.
The cue
First lap is for position. Second lap is for pace. Third lap is for everything.
The drill — Race Simulation
Set up a loop course — could be on a pump track, a section of trail, or a marked dirt loop.
Practice the start: standing start, pre-load on the pedals, hard first 30 seconds, settle into pace. Run 3-4 starts. The goal isn't to win the start — it's to learn to control the first effort without redlining.
Practice pacing: 3-lap effort. Compare lap times. Best result: lap times within 5% of each other (consistent pacing). Worst result: lap 1 way faster than lap 3 (blew up).
Practice passing: in pairs, slower rider ahead. Faster rider calls "passing on your left!" or similar. Slower rider holds line, doesn't swerve. Faster rider goes around at a safe point. Switch roles.
Talk through race etiquette: no passing on dangerous terrain, calling clearly, holding lines, no contact.
What success looks like
Lap times consistent across multiple laps
Clean starts — controlled effort, no flailing
Passes called clearly, safely, with mutual respect
Can articulate a pacing strategy before the run
Finishes the simulation looking strong, not destroyed
What failure looks like
Blows up the first lap, then dies — universal mistake at this age. Cue: "Even pacing. The first lap is supposed to feel easier than the last."
Passes recklessly — cuts a corner, contacts the other rider, swerves on chunk. Call it immediately. Race-day passing in junior racing is hyper-regulated for a reason — kids get hurt when this goes wrong. Cue: "Wait for a safe spot. Call your pass. Give space. Always."
Won't pass even when faster — politeness can be a real obstacle in racing. Cue: "You're faster. The pass is yours to make. Call it loud and clear, then go."
Sandbags on the start — starts too slow to avoid looking aggressive. In racing this loses positions fast. Cue: "Hard first 30 seconds. You can settle in after. The start is yours to take."
If stuck
If a rider can't get pacing right, have her try the opposite of her instinct. Most riders this age go out way too hard on lap 1. Have her deliberately go too SLOW on lap 1 — like, embarrassingly slow. Then natural pace on lap 2. Then push lap 3. She'll usually be faster overall than going out hot. Counterintuitive lessons stick. Pacing is a skill that takes years. Start now.
Card 12 · The Most Important Card
Mental skills, risk & retention
Fear management. Risk assessment. Knowing when to ride and when to walk. And the underlying goal of this whole program: keeping her in the sport for life.
Why it matters
This is the most important card in the deck. The research is clear: most girls who quit cycling do so between ages 11 and 14. The ones who reach 12 still actively riding and confident usually stay riders for life. The goal of this program is not to make her a pro. The goal is not to make her win races. The goal is to keep her riding — for joy, for fitness, for community, for life. Every coaching decision in this deck should be measured against that goal. Push too hard on fear and you lose her. Push too soft on skill and she gets bored. The sweet spot keeps her growing and keeps her here.
The cue
Walk it if you're not sure. Send it cleanly when you are. Stay riding either way.
The drill — Pre-Ride Risk Check
Before every technical feature, the rider answers three questions out loud:
1. "Can I roll it?" — If yes, ride. If no, walk.
2. "If I crash here, what's the consequence?" — Bruise? Broken bone? Worse? Match risk tolerance to consequence.
3. "Have I done this size before?" — If no, smaller version first. If yes, proceed.
This is a habit, not a one-time exercise. Repeat it before every feature for the first 3 weeks. By week 5, she should be doing it silently in her head.
Talk about "sending" vs "surviving": sending is committing to a feature you've prepared for; surviving is barely making it through a feature you weren't ready for. Sending is the goal. Surviving means you got lucky.
Talk about walking: walking a feature is not failure. The best riders in the world walk features. Walking and coming back when you're ready is how you become a rider who lasts.
The retention reality
Most girls in cycling drop out between 11-14. The research is consistent on this. The reasons are documented and preventable:
Being pushed through fear — creates lifelong avoidance. Don't push.
Being shamed for walking features — same outcome. Walking is a skill.
Comments about her body — appearance, weight, size. Never. Comment only on her riding.
Tone-deaf handling of periods or body changes — treat them matter-of-factly. Don't make them weird.
Cultural pressure from outside the program — "girls don't do this." Your job is to be the proof they do.
What success looks like
Riders can articulate why they chose to ride or walk a feature
Honest about fear instead of pretending to be fine
Knows the difference between "scared and ready" and "scared and not ready"
Walks features without shame
Doesn't pressure others to send what they're not ready for
Comes back next session. Comes back next year. Stays riding.
What failure looks like
"I got it" without conviction — fake confidence. Watch body language. Stiff shoulders, white knuckles, no breathing. Pull aside privately. Ask directly.
Pressures another rider to send — shut it down hard. Cue: "Her progression is hers. You don't get a vote on what she rides."
Mocks another rider for walking a feature — zero tolerance. Cue: "We don't trash-talk riders who walk. Every rider in this program walks features. Including me. Including pros. That's how riders live to ride next week."
Says she's quitting at end of season — listen. Ask why. Sometimes it's burnout (take a break, come back). Sometimes it's a social issue (different friend group needs to form). Sometimes it's real and she's done. The goal is to keep her in the sport for life, not to keep her in this program forever. Help her find what's next.
Sends something stupid and crashes — happens. After the crash, no shaming — but real conversation. "What did your gut say beforehand? Did you listen to it?"
If retention is the issue
If you see a rider losing interest — showing up tired, going through the motions, not engaged — talk to her. Not as her coach. As an adult who cares. Find out what's going on. Sometimes it's life stuff that has nothing to do with the bike. Sometimes it's bike stuff that's solvable. Sometimes she just needs a season off — and that's okay. Tell her she's always welcome back. The riders who feel they have to perform to belong are the riders who quit. The riders who feel they belong no matter what are the riders who stay. Make her belong, regardless of how she rides.